Even though I am adamant that I will live as little of my life as possible in cities, I have always considered Seattle could be worth a try. Having spent a week or two in the city on different trips, I have felt the vibe, the draw, and the desire to call Seattle home. In 2013, I led a trip for Apogee Adventures that highlighted the wonders of the Pacific Northwest with backpacking sections in the Olympics and North Cascades, a sea kayaking adventure in the San Juan Islands, and a day or two to wander Seattle. It left quite an impression. This visit allowed me to dig deeper, exploring the culture, meeting local Seattleites, and figuring out what truly makes the city tick. I also, of course, got to return to the Cascades, Olympics, and even spent a day on Rainier. Let’s face it, even with the persistent gloom, I am still a big fan of Seattle.
This visit felt like a two-part experience. Upon arrival, I spent a few days settling into my unbelievable perch on Capitol Hill and spending time with my hosts, Martha and Jerry. After this short stint, I headed out, wandering through North Cascade, Olympics, and Rainier, admiring Seattle’s proximity to world-class mountaineering, epic rain forests, wild beaches, and dense forests. I have already detailed those experiences in previous posts, so feel free to check them out if you’re interested. That short tour, despite the incessant rain, reminded me why so many people love this city.
Upon returning to the city, I met up with a few midwestern transplants that now call Seattle home. They helped me understand the experience of Seattle from an outsider’s perspective. Through Jerry and Martha, I had already met a few Seattleites, all of whom spoke volumes about the wonders of the city. Even if they had left for college, they had returned afterwards, unable to stay away. The city clearly has an almost gravitational pull on its inhabitants. Maybe this is one way that the city attempts to maintain its identity…
From the transplanted Wisconsinites, I heard a different story. Although Isaac and Forrest both spoke very positively about their transition to Seattle, they couldn’t help but mention phrases like the “Seattle chill”. Seattle is somewhat notorious for its inbred identity. Outsiders often find it very difficult to crack the brooding, intense exterior of Seattleites. It takes courage and confidence to initiate the conversations that eventually lead to deep, caring friendships. This phenomenon of an anti-outsider mentality or an exclusive community within Seattle that is hard to break into has earned the name: the “Seattle chill.” Both my friends had experienced it, but had overcome it, stating that as long as you had one friend, you were in.
Over dinner, we focused on the similarities between Seattle and Madison. We agreed that Seattle feels like Madison… on steroids. In truth, the comparison is not without merit. Madison’s downtown is currently skyrocketing as more and more young professionals join the burgeoning ranks of Epic employees. Seattle, home of Amazon, Boeing, Starbucks, and Microsoft, is undergoing a similar expansion on a much larger scale. Moreover, both Madison and Seattle are centers of progressive thought. From recycling to local farming initiatives, from sustainable urban planning to outdoor enthusiasm, both places share similar values. That said, Seattleites can far more readily realize their passion for big water and big mountains than Madisonians. On an entirely political level, both cities also represent anamolies within their states political reality. Madison is often described as “twenty square miles surrounded by reality” because of its overtly liberal identity. It is the capital of a state that constantly oscillates between conservative and progressive value systems. This can be attributed to the divide between the urban and rural voting populations. Seattle has a similar relationship to the rest of Washington, much of which is just as rural and agrarian as most of Wisconsin. Despite Seattle’s immensity, it has always felt like home. I guess now I know why.
Political and social commentary aside, my time in Seattle was full of solo exploration as well. I went running every day on Capitol Hill, exploring the Arboretum, Volunteer Park, and a spectacular ravine. Each day I struggled up some of the steepest hills I have ever encountered… Ugh! One day, I even walked all the way from Ballard to Capitol Hill, wandering past houseboat neighborhoods, a Google campus, a statue of Lenin, and over and under countless bridges. That walk, more than anything else, highlighted the industrial infrastructure still hard at work in Seattle. It isn’t just a city built on tech firms and digital enterprises. The locks, docks, and boatyards tell a different story, one of a working relationship between man and water. From my vantage point on Capitol Hill, I watched this everyday as a seemingly limitless fleet of seaplanes cycled through Lake Union. Each morning, my fantasies of owning a seaplane came swirling back… someday.
On my last day in Seattle, I decided to jog downtown. This exercise allowed me to get my daily dose of fitness, but also meant that I could explore downtown without having to worry about (or pay for) parking. Seattle’s traffic is definitely something to complain about, so running made it far more pleasant. My goal was to visit as many outdoor shops as possible. The outdoor gear scene in Seattle may be better than any other city. It is the home of REI, Feathered Friends, Outdoor Research, Filson, MSR, and countless other brands that I am forgetting. I love gear, so exploring the downtown scene was right up my alley. In my opinion, the Feathered Friends and Outdoor Research stores have some of the best-curated collections of outdoor gear I have ever seen. Although I didn’t run there that day, Second Ascent over in Ballard has a great selection of used gear as well. When it comes to playing outdoors, Seattle knows how it’s done. While jogging between shops, I ran into Mackie, a hall mate from freshman year at Bates and a fellow Frisbee player. Stunned, we both did a double take. Since college, she has been living in Chile, so I was totally shocked to see her stateside. What a surprise!
On my last night in Seattle, my dad and I attended a memorial service for Doug Walker, a man I hiked with as a child on many Wilderness Society retreats. He died in an avalanche on New Year’s Eve on Granite Peak. The service celebrated the adventurous, nurturing spirit that Doug brought with him to every conversation, every climb, and every second of his life. His mission was to share his love of the outdoors, of climbing, with others. In the end, that drive took his life, but not before he touched thousands with his infectious passion for adventure and reverence for nature.
My time in Seattle inspired me to take full advantage of the opportunities that surround me each and every day. I spent time reconnecting with old friends and making new friends, dedicating hours and hours of conversation to all kinds of topics ranging from the meaning of “wild” to the peculiarities of family dynamics (Thanks Annie!). I got to explore one of the most amazing schools I have ever seen. With a curriculum that encourages students to explore their potential across multiple disciplines, I couldn’t help but wonder who I would be or what I would care about had I attended such a school. I saw the best of Seattle, even when things got a bit gloomy. Finally, I am incredibly thankful for the time I got to spend with my hosts, Jerry and Martha, and for their constant and unyielding generosity. They truly made Seattle feel like a home away from home and made me feel like part of their family. I cannot even begin to thank them enough for that!
One Response
Jean Cronon
You certainly made every outing count while you roamed (ran) the streets, railroad tracks, bridges etc in Seattle. To run into another friend from Bates (by chance) must have been a surprise but you had Bates friends in many of the places you have been to. I remember that tall tower topped with that circular restaurant where Dave and I had dinner when I went with him on a UW business trip.